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Thread: Ask Graphics Questions Here

  1. #16
    I got fire! Rah Gwahn's Avatar
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    It's got PS7 on the Mac at college. I thought that would be an issue, but thanks for the link anyway.

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  2. #17
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    Quote Originally Posted by The Post Whisperer View Post
    You could be using an older version of PS on the mac that doesn't support that function. Just go to the help section and look it up. It should be pretty simple.

    If it doesn't support it, you could do it in illustrator and then bring it into Photoshop. Illustrator is much better for vectors anyway.

    http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/20821.html

    ^ Here's a link to a webpage that discusses how to do it.

    is illustrator what you should use to create logos, because photoshop has the annoying pixilated look, where as illustrtor is alot smoother?


    i think, yes?
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  3. #18
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    Illustrator uses a system of vector graphics, where as Photoshop standardly uses bitmap and raster graphics.

    The difference is that raster graphics are based on pixels, and they work by basically sampling an image from it's information, and reproducing it in the most similar possible colour. Vector graphics are based on more complex bits, i think polygonal shaped (look it up if you really want to know heh) and they are constructed using a load of complex information and calculations. The ending result is a solid, clean image that from what i know can practically be reproduced with the same quality at any resolution.

    So that's the basic difference. Illustrator is alot better for creating logos, shapes, and linework for anything. Photoshop is alot more useful for colouring and adding to your linework, or for making quick and small images such as sigs etc. Anybody who relies on Photoshop for every aspect of their artwork from start to finish, are seriously missing out.

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  4. #19
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    i know theres a graphics designer down my street i talked to him... thanks for all that information
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  5. #20
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    im looking into buying Screen Printing equipment to start my own line of custom tshirts, how do i make, like, how do i take an image from photoshop to where i can iron it on or use ink?

    none of you may know this but i thought it was worth a try.
    Coronavirus can't get me.

  6. #21
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    Once you've got the equipment (i'm assuming you know all the equipment you need to start with) then this should be easy enough for you:

    First, here's some terms explained:
    • Screenprinting Inks - there is a special fabric paint mixture you can buy with no effort, that you can add to most paints such as acrylic and poster. This turns general paint into handy screen compatible ink.
    • Screen - A screen is the wooden frame, with unique 'mesh' over the top of it. This is your number one tool for screenprinting, you will no doubt have seen one by now.
    • acetate - the sort of thing that is printed onto and used in over-head projectors. Very durable 'paper' that's made from completely transparent plastic. Available in any office supply stores, in most sizes.
    • Blacking out - if i gave you a drawing of a red circle, 'blacking it out' in screen printing terms, means to trace over and colour the red areas black. Upon transferring the image to the screen, this black is to stop the light source passing through - which in turn transfers the 'silhouette' onto your chemically prepared screen. (I can't explain the chemical part, i wouldn't want to tell you something i don't know much about, but the manual in the kit will explain this fully)

    Make sure your image is as compatible as possible with flat colours and it has simple ways of creating tone, otherwise your screen won't develop as good as possible.

    Ok, so assuming you have your image finalised, it then needs to be broken down into different parts: every colour needs to have it's own frame, otherwise you have to re-wash the frame, dry it out and develop it, which takes up to 2 days at a time. For basics and for a good idea of what you're dealing with i'll explain a two colour print.

    Wherever there's a colour (yellow for this example, but most peoples basic colour would usually be black - i'm using yellow here because if i keep saying black too much it'll get confusing), you need an acetate (see through plastic paper) sheet, with the image drawn or photocopied on, with solid black ink, wherever you want the yellow in your drawing to be printed. Essentially you're tracing the yellow, in black.

    If you're doing a single colour yellow print, then you STILL need to trace it in black onto acetate. You have to make sure it's on acetate, or thin sheets of glass or something else transparent, i'll explain why in a sec.

    However if you're doing a yellow AND red print (a red circle with yellow stars around it, for example) then you need to do one drawing on acetate, blacking in where the red is going to go, and another one on a seperate sheet, blacking in where the yellow is going to go. It's important to make sure they're lined up as accurately as possible.

    Ok, so once you've done that, you will have two seperate sheets of acetate with two seperate drawings - one for each screen.

    You need a very powerful light source, and a dark room.

    Once your screen is prepared (this is the chemical part), you need to transfer your image.
    A light box is the best way to transfer. The way to do this is to place the acetate onto the light box, and the screen on top of that. Here's a text diagram of how it should look:

    Heavy books/something to press the screen down hard ------> the screen, already prepared ------> your image on acetate, placed where you want the image to appear on the screen -------> the light box.

    This should be in a dark room, well ventilated. Now you should see why the image has to be traced in solid black onto acetate.

    I left my screens for a good hour or so before i checked them, but i'm not definite on the time to leave it for as it's been ages since i did it last, so you might want to look that up.

    You need to repeate the process for every colour, transferring an image onto the screen in the same way.

    Once the image is transferred, take the screen and wash it thouroughly. This gets rid of any excess chemicals, and also leaves the trace of your image on the screen. The best thing to use is a hose-gun, just connect it to your bath tap or something and blast the screen well in the bathtub. Dry it out as best you can, and it's ready to be used on your t-shirt.

    The rest is basically there in front of you. Mix the paint, place the screen on a secured down t-shirt, face down, place a small amount of paint at the top of the screen, spread it well across the full width, and drag it down with the squeegee you get in your pack. Make sure it's an even coating.

    I can't really explain it much better, so yeah if you read this and read the manual you get in the starter kit, and look the process up on youtube, then you'll fully understand it pretty soon.

    It's easier than it sounds here, but pretty time consuming and it gets very repetitive.

    These are some tips i can give - photocopy your acetates twice and tape them together to 'double' the intensity of the black. This helps when transferring the image.
    If you make mistakes, or you get paint where you didn't want it, then don't worry too much; after the paint is dry, you only iron the bits of the paint that you want to keep. If you don't iron the mistakes, they'll mostly wash out.
    If you're hand drawing designs, then any tone is best done with hatching, cross hatching, or stipling. Something easy to define between light and dark. If you use a gradient such as in photoshop, your screen will likely not develop properly and the tone will be messy and inconsistant, if there at all.

    That's as much help as i can give in one go i'd say, i'm not a pro at it so i might be wrong or slightly inefficient in some areas but it's still a straightforward way of getting to where you're aiming.

    Good luck! If you have any specific questions about it i'd be better at answering them seperately rather than writing a whole start-to-finish kind of thing.

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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    how much k grey is the background

  8. #23
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    The K value for the RB background is 0%, the hex code is babbbf

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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    I suck with photoshop, can anyone please give me the link to an unlocked background color thats grey as the site please?

  10. #25
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    Re: Ask Graphics Questions Here

    Like i said, the hex code for the colour of RB's gray background is babbbf.

    The hex code can be used in any color picker, and in web formats such as HTML.

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  11. #26
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    good site for renders?

    besides planet renders

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    Re: good site for renders?

    gamerenders.com
    lyricalz finest

  13. #28
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    Re: good site for renders?

    Make your own, much better.

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  14. #29
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    Re: good site for renders?

    that always works but im some what lazy,

  15. #30
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    Re: good site for renders?

    There's no getting better without try bro.

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